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Sunday, March 11, 2012

Review: The Kitchen Boulder

Thanks to a previous and treasured relationship, I have had the opportunity to cultivate a taste for fine dining.  Having experienced the very best that fine dining has to offer, I've frequented such Denver legends as Mizuna, Luca D'Italia and Fruition.  My authority for offering opinions on this subject however, stem from a once-in-a-lifetime meal at the distinguished Thomas Keller NYC flagship, Per Se.  Therefore, I can confidently and knowledgeably deem The Kitchen Boulder as one of the finest gourmet establishments in the Denver-Boulder area.


Located at the heart of Pearl Street, the atmosphere was quaint, relaxed, and not at all assuming; anyone would feel welcomed and comfortable despite their previous experiences with epicurean fare.  The Kitchen is famous for its community oriented  mission.  All ingredients are purchased from local farmers, and menu items change daily to reflect what is currently fresh and available.  Also, they feature Community Hour Monday through Friday 3:00pm to 5:30pm, during which they serve a family-style dinner around one large table prior to normal dinner service.  This overwhelming sense of sustainability and quality alone should inspire appraisal of this magnificent venue.

With its notoriety in mind, our party of four delightedly discovered that the wait would only be 15 minutes, despite it being after 6:00pm on a Friday night.  We went to the bar where my friends found an astounding selection of wines and beverages which the bartender artfully elucidated, offering expert suggestion for each of their varying palates.  Meanwhile I settled on one of the delicious non-alcoholic cocktails, the refreshing 'Kitchen Rickey.'  We were seated and our waiter proficiently maneuvered each quiz regarding menu items.  Indeed the selection featured something for everyone as well as every wallet; from experienced foodies and people desiring a unique culinary treat, to parties looking for a small and simple, yet novel, array of gourmet nibbles.

Once we had ordered, the seamless arrival of courses ensued.  The bread and butter were homemade, uncomplicated and delicious.  The server offered us more once our basket was empty though we declined in anticipation of further nourishment; still, it's comforting to know they don't skimp.   Next, the starters arrived.  I found the Cumin Yogurt quite salty, but this tends to be a norm at most fine-dining restaurants as they use natural and course sea salt.  In fairness, I'm also not in the habit of salting my food, so everything typically tastes salty to me when I eat out.  Despite its powerful savory flavor, the presentation was pleasing and overall the dish was phenomenal.  My entree of Braised Rabbit and Gnocchi was by far the most mouth-tingling fare I've had since Per Se; the perfect blend of spices and aromas damn near brought a tear to my eye and I protracted each bite.  I did not find myself alone in these sentiments.  Everyone in the party was equally savoring their meals; no complaints to be heard, just happy faces with chewing mouths and glowing eyes.  This even included a friend, normally a vegetarian, who settled on the perch.  We were all a bit shocked to observe that the entirety of the fish was served; bone-in, tall-straight, eyes open and mouth agape.  In a steadfast manner my friend took responsibility for her choice and stated that if she could not eat a fish as it looked in nature then she had no right eating it at all.  She subsequently dug in with her tiny fork and thoroughly enjoyed the flavorful dish.  I found this bold resoluteness extremely inspiring, I could not have mastered the eyeing-fish so easily, and I'm a full-blown herbivore!


A general note about fine-dining here.  Do not cheat yourself from possessing the full breadth of wonder that is gourmet dining.  Go with people you know well and want to spend an entire evening with, and partake of every delicious course ignorant of cost or calories; completely without guilt.  Any fine-dining staff will space the courses to perfectly suite your appetite, you'll never feel full just comfortable and anxious for the next savory delight.  Venture to try something that you have never tasted or have even heard of, like squab, and don't fret over mis-pronunciations; the servers deserve some amusement after all.  To attempt this experience in a rushed, restricted or miserly manner would be nothing short of a travesty.  I likewise believe to do so is highly offensive to the establishment and it's entire staff.  These people are professional servers, there to provide you with an ineffable and unparalleled culinary experience, treat them well by treating yourself well and fully committing to the opportunity of broadening your gastronomical horizon.


Musts for Any Gourmet Dining Experience:
  1. Good Company
  2. Loose Wallet 
  3. Ample Time
  4. Open, Guilt-Free, Mind

Following my guidelines above, dessert in an absolute necessity.  I had the Pot Au Chocolat which puts any 'molten chocolate cake' to treacherous shame.  They baked it only long enough to ensure a crispy top, gooey bottom and pure warm-melty-deliciousness in the middle.  I can also tell you with 100% certainty this sure as hell wasn't Hershey's chocolate; this was the real stuff, dark and rich.  I luxuriated in this dessert along with an expertly brewed Americano, into which I poured the Heavy Cream that came with my dessert.  Our party sat, chatted and prolonged our stay well past dessert, but never once were we rushed to leave.

The combination of the environment, service, meal, company and dessert was something akin to a three hour orgasm.  After that experience who could possibly concern themselves with money?  I threw down my credit card and declared 'Just keep adding numbers until it says declined!'

Meal Summary
Beverage: Kitchen Rickey - Fresh Squeezed Lime Juice, Orange Bitters & Ginger Ale
Starter: Grilled Lacinato Kale - Crispy Anson Mills Polenta & Cumin Yogurt
Entree: Hand Rolled Gnocchi - Braised Rabbit, Bacon, Parmesan, Marjoram & Bay
Dessert: Pot Au Chocolat with Heavy Cream
Dessert Beverage: Decaf Americano

Summer's Take-Home Message: You have not lived until you've experienced fine dining, and The Kitchen Boulder is as good a place as any to start living!

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